If you have a question about gardening in the Birmingham area, ask John. John Floyd has been gardening–and learning about gardening–for more than 30 years. In addition to his day-to-day experience in the garden, John has degrees in horticulture, plant taxonomy, and plant physiology from Auburn and Clemson Universities and was Editor-in-Chief of Southern Living.
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Not at all. I suggest that you plant them between mid-November after the weather cools through about the first two weeks in January, If you have purchased them and are not ready to plant, refrigerate but not in a plastic bag until you are ready to plant. I currently have mine on order and will refrigerate until we have continuous cold night probably plant in December
I think I have seen more mushroom types this year in yards than ever before. I put a plastic bag over them and pull them up and tie in a plastic bag bugs and all then discard it. Once the mushroom is removed, sevin might control the insects. Do not know for sure until I see an image of one but generally mushroom removal is the key to getting rid of bugs.
Yes but it is a bit late in the season.
Well, I think we can blame it on two issues. One this is the natural time for dead branches to dehiss from the trees especially with the winds of recent days. Second, many of our trees were stressed last year in the drought so many of the already weak limbs died over the spring and summer causing additional dead limbs. I really do not think you need to worry about loosing the trees especially if they have looked healthy all summer.
Ewing Irrigation in Pelham
Ortho Tree and Shrub grandular insect control. My general fertilizer recommendation is 15-0-15 for most shrubs in our area as we generally have high levels of phosphorus in our soils. In spring if you want to foster additional growth you can increase the nitrogen number but I only do that is the plant looks poor.
If you sent an image I did not receive it.- john
First, tag the ones you want to move now. If you can go around the drip line of the plant (the outer edge of the leaves) and insert a shovel in the soil to cut the roots if posssible. Then this winter dig the plants and transplant them to your garden.
Right now do nothing except water when needed. After the foliage come out in the spring fetilize lightly with a product like 5-10-10. They in my mind are one of the most care free fruit trees you can grow.
Florist type hydrangeas should be pruned now as the new growth this fall is where they will bloom next year. It is so late now I would not reduce their size over about a fourth. All of the other Hydrangea types I would not prune until late winter before any foliage appears. As for Carolina Jessamine, it can be done anytime but to prevent bloom loss prune after they finish flowering in the spring.
Trim is the right word or maybe a light shape is ok now except on old-English box and I would be very careful with old American Boxwood,too. Removal of awkward branches or new growth is fine.
No, but more than likely this year the blooms were affected by the late freeze. Also, it may be just too young to put on any fruit. You do not need another one to produce fruit, but in this region my experience is that they are not heavy producers.
I am sorry you are having such a problem. Seems like you have tried most things. Soapy water sprayed on the leaves followed by a strong hose spray many times helps reduce them initially. Then hose spraying when you water will keep the majority of them off the plant. While not a control, it works to limit the amount on the plants.
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My first guest would be the old fashioned Gardenias. they are very fragrant and blooming great this year