If you have a question about gardening in the Birmingham area, ask John. John Floyd has been gardening–and learning about gardening–for more than 30 years. In addition to his day-to-day experience in the garden, John has degrees in horticulture, plant taxonomy, and plant physiology from Auburn and Clemson Universities and was Editor-in-Chief of Southern Living.
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Of course you can use the “leaves” to season things but the general rule is when the fennel bulb gets the size of a tennis ball it is ready for harvest. Probably it will be mid to late summer this year. As for the cauliflower, beets, etc depending on the heat I will plant sometime in September around the 15th when the nights begin to be cooler.
I think they would be fine but I would make sure they get some winter protection to keep the pots from becoming totally frozen- john
Did not get complete message, please send again- john
I did mine about a week ago as I think the bloom buds are showing and all the alive wood has foliage on it now.
Wrinkled and off color, too. In either case, I think fertilization is one key to getting the leaves healthy again. Use a product like 15-0-15 or similar formulation and water in well. Since it is relatively young, 1/3 cup sprinkled around the roots should be enough now, then repeat the application again before a rain in June.
My first guess is that it is in too much shade. They like almost full to full sun to bloom. Like many of our marginal hardy shrubs that we think of as hardy the 9 degrees did a lot of cold damage this past winter. Just keep removing dead branches but also look at the base of the plant and see if the bark is split. If that is the case you might loose all the old branches but it should come back from the roots.
Most sources say they are fine in full sun but in my experience not full sun all day. I perfer to grow them where they get a bit of flitered shade in the hottest part of a summer day.
see answer below
Old camellias have some characteristics that generally leave them with lower limbs bare or dead and are removed. Apparently, yours has grown tall, and from the several different posts I assume you want to cut it back to stimulate new growth on the lower part of the trunk. First, you can radically prune it now if you desire, but I would do it over several years instead of all at once. New growth on the lower limbs will require bright sunlight. So in year one, I would remove enough limbs below the desired height to encourage lower trunk or stem growth. Then in year two, I would take the rest of the plant down. Do this after flowering and make sure the new lower limbs get plenty of sunlight. Also in spring I would, in this case, fertilize it with a high nitrogen numbered fertilizer to stimulate foliage growth. Look for something with a high first number similar to 12-6-6 or 10-5-5. Remember this is going to take years to produce a beautiful looking plant.
A fall application of a pre-emergence should give good control but since it is spring you can direct spray a pre-emergence herbicide containing 2,4-D. Since it seeds and they germinate quickly repeated applications my be necessary to control permanently for this growing season.
Cut your roses back now. As for the ants, any good ant killer should work and not kill the plant.
Spray it now with a herbicide containing 2,4-D and apply a pre-emergence next fall. Once it dies from the 2-4-D application plant as desried.
Really they are easy to prune as they do not need much. Shape as desired and remove any dead or damaged branches. As they grow older you might want to remove a few old canes each year to stimulate new growth.
Se answer on your question in part two of question.
I do wish I could be helpful but I know of no control that works on deer other than tall fencing. I hope the repellant works for you.
My maple tree has splits in the bark. Should I be doing something.
If the bark is splitting no worry. If the trunk or limbs are splitting send me images of the problem or have a professional give you an opnion.
Greetings John, My beautiful Peace lillies have an infestation of a scaly type of insect…aphids…I attempted to eradicate them by cleansing the stems and leaves with a damp paper towel and then followed up with a banana peel. As a deterrent, I would break off pieces of the peel and place around the top of the dirt. This seemed to work for a little while, but then I notice some of the leaves begin to grow limp and then turn yellow and I just cut them off. I would appreciate any suggestion and I really prefer the “Natural” remedy, but am open to whatever help you can offer. Thank you.
Safer’s Insecticidal Soap should work. It is safe and organic. Follow label directions carefully.
Thanks, John. Looks like I need to do a little butt gardening.
I thhugot finding this would be so arduous but it’s a breeze!
thank you for replying re: fertilizing my various hydrangea types. I’m going to purchase the 15-0-15 you suggested and I plan to put some, dry, around the base of each plant. Some are very mature–the latest additions were planted in October, 2014. OK to treat all one time either now or very early summer? Thanks again.
absolutely
Got it! Happy Summer! n
So happy to discover this website!
We try to put up something new everyday. Thanks-john
I transplanted some daffodils several years ago from my family home in Grove Hill, AL. The blooms do not seem as bright and yellow as they did in their previous environment. Is there a food they need to be more colorful and not so pale yellow? The foliage looks great; only the flowers are not as bright.
It might be several things, but usually the depth of color is pretty constant. Once they finish blooming, I would give them a bit of fertilizer. There are products especially for bulbs, but an all-purpose fertilizer like 15-0-15 (which is what most of us need to use in this area) can be sprinkled throughout the foliage. Also, if the bulbs you dug were in a sunny spot, and yours are in shade, that might affect the color somewhat. Other than that, I really do not have any ideas. Let’s hope next year the color will be brighter and clearer.