If you have a question about gardening in the Birmingham area, ask John. John Floyd has been gardening–and learning about gardening–for more than 30 years. In addition to his day-to-day experience in the garden, John has degrees in horticulture, plant taxonomy, and plant physiology from Auburn and Clemson Universities and was Editor-in-Chief of Southern Living.
If you need to include a photo, you can email your question to BirminghamGardeningToday@gmail.com
Yes but it is a bit late in the season.
Well, I think we can blame it on two issues. One this is the natural time for dead branches to dehiss from the trees especially with the winds of recent days. Second, many of our trees were stressed last year in the drought so many of the already weak limbs died over the spring and summer causing additional dead limbs. I really do not think you need to worry about loosing the trees especially if they have looked healthy all summer.
Ewing Irrigation in Pelham
Ortho Tree and Shrub grandular insect control. My general fertilizer recommendation is 15-0-15 for most shrubs in our area as we generally have high levels of phosphorus in our soils. In spring if you want to foster additional growth you can increase the nitrogen number but I only do that is the plant looks poor.
If you sent an image I did not receive it.- john
First, tag the ones you want to move now. If you can go around the drip line of the plant (the outer edge of the leaves) and insert a shovel in the soil to cut the roots if posssible. Then this winter dig the plants and transplant them to your garden.
Right now do nothing except water when needed. After the foliage come out in the spring fetilize lightly with a product like 5-10-10. They in my mind are one of the most care free fruit trees you can grow.
Florist type hydrangeas should be pruned now as the new growth this fall is where they will bloom next year. It is so late now I would not reduce their size over about a fourth. All of the other Hydrangea types I would not prune until late winter before any foliage appears. As for Carolina Jessamine, it can be done anytime but to prevent bloom loss prune after they finish flowering in the spring.
Trim is the right word or maybe a light shape is ok now except on old-English box and I would be very careful with old American Boxwood,too. Removal of awkward branches or new growth is fine.
No, but more than likely this year the blooms were affected by the late freeze. Also, it may be just too young to put on any fruit. You do not need another one to produce fruit, but in this region my experience is that they are not heavy producers.
I am sorry you are having such a problem. Seems like you have tried most things. Soapy water sprayed on the leaves followed by a strong hose spray many times helps reduce them initially. Then hose spraying when you water will keep the majority of them off the plant. While not a control, it works to limit the amount on the plants.
Call me in Trussville phone book
My first guest would be the old fashioned Gardenias. they are very fragrant and blooming great this year
Break them off at the base of the flower stem after the color fades on the blooms.
I would prune it as soon as possible. But if you plan to take it down more than a third, I suggest you do it over several years. If you just want to take a couple of feet off of it and reshape it, I think it is ok to do that now. Fertilize following severe pruning to encourage new growth.
My maple tree has splits in the bark. Should I be doing something.
If the bark is splitting no worry. If the trunk or limbs are splitting send me images of the problem or have a professional give you an opnion.
Greetings John, My beautiful Peace lillies have an infestation of a scaly type of insect…aphids…I attempted to eradicate them by cleansing the stems and leaves with a damp paper towel and then followed up with a banana peel. As a deterrent, I would break off pieces of the peel and place around the top of the dirt. This seemed to work for a little while, but then I notice some of the leaves begin to grow limp and then turn yellow and I just cut them off. I would appreciate any suggestion and I really prefer the “Natural” remedy, but am open to whatever help you can offer. Thank you.
Safer’s Insecticidal Soap should work. It is safe and organic. Follow label directions carefully.
Thanks, John. Looks like I need to do a little butt gardening.
I thhugot finding this would be so arduous but it’s a breeze!
thank you for replying re: fertilizing my various hydrangea types. I’m going to purchase the 15-0-15 you suggested and I plan to put some, dry, around the base of each plant. Some are very mature–the latest additions were planted in October, 2014. OK to treat all one time either now or very early summer? Thanks again.
absolutely
Got it! Happy Summer! n
So happy to discover this website!
We try to put up something new everyday. Thanks-john
I transplanted some daffodils several years ago from my family home in Grove Hill, AL. The blooms do not seem as bright and yellow as they did in their previous environment. Is there a food they need to be more colorful and not so pale yellow? The foliage looks great; only the flowers are not as bright.
It might be several things, but usually the depth of color is pretty constant. Once they finish blooming, I would give them a bit of fertilizer. There are products especially for bulbs, but an all-purpose fertilizer like 15-0-15 (which is what most of us need to use in this area) can be sprinkled throughout the foliage. Also, if the bulbs you dug were in a sunny spot, and yours are in shade, that might affect the color somewhat. Other than that, I really do not have any ideas. Let’s hope next year the color will be brighter and clearer.