If you have a question about gardening in the Birmingham area, ask John. John Floyd has been gardening–and learning about gardening–for more than 30 years. In addition to his day-to-day experience in the garden, John has degrees in horticulture, plant taxonomy, and plant physiology from Auburn and Clemson Universities and was Editor-in-Chief of Southern Living.
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I would wait and prune in early spring after the plants finished blooming. I think pruning anything but stray branches now might cause you to loose some of your flower buds.
It is no question I would plant them in late winter or early spring. The real problem is the red clay soil. It can hold water in the planting holes in the winter and dry hard in summer. Since it is on a hill, dig extra big holes. Fill around the plants with a good organic matter that contains at least 25% sand. After planting, put a raised ring of soil around the edge of the hole to catch water. Mulch heavily. This method should encourage good root growth, and thus allow them to cover well.
Yes, it does well here as a ground cover. If using small potted plants, most landscape folks plant them any time of the year. I would say now is not a good time. I would wait until the weather cools this fall to plant. Of course, the best time is late spring, and that will advoid any cold weather damage its first year.
The best time to prune weigelia is after flowering in the spring. The only thing I would do now is to shape the plant if needed.
I have the same issue, and my guess is that they are being chewed by flying insects like grasshoppers. You can dust with Sevin and that might help, but controlling insects like grasshoppers is nearly impossible.
First, some you can cut back and they will bloom again, others will not. My best advice is to stop fertilization. Keeped them watered, and I am sure they should have a nice crop of fall blooms.
I looked it up and it is a herbicide used on commercial crops and I could not find any inforamtion if it is safe to use like you described.
The best time of the year is when the plants or dormant or early spring when the foliage is just sprouting. Now saying that folks transplant them all the time with big clumps of dirt around the plants but not all will make it even if they are kept constantly moist
Look for little greenish worms. If that is the case it is cabbage looper and can be controlled with ‘Sevin’ or ‘Dipel'(organic). If that is not the case, it could be something like grasshoppers or some type of flying insect. In all cases I suspect ‘Sevin’ will help.
It will do great here. While our soils are a mix of sand and clay it has power enough to handle our soils just fine.
I generally use a low nitrogen fertilizer like 5-10-10 or 6-12-12 this time of the year on hydrangeas.
I do not know of any selections and they are hard to find. The are great for Alabama gardens since it is a native plant in parts of our state.
It is probably dogwood borer from what you describe. Ortho Rose and Shrub disease product is a homeowner product cleared to control dogwood borer. Apply according to label directions. If the trees are large, several applications will be needed in several seasons.
I think it is worth a try as you have nothing to lose, but rooting these is not easy. But, if you have had success in the past, then if the wood of the plant is not too big and old, you probably can root it the same way you did the others.
Well, you can do that as long as there is foliage below where you are cutting the ficus. Just remember that you can also do it in stages, which I like to do.