If you have a question about gardening in the Birmingham area, ask John. John Floyd has been gardening–and learning about gardening–for more than 30 years. In addition to his day-to-day experience in the garden, John has degrees in horticulture, plant taxonomy, and plant physiology from Auburn and Clemson Universities and was Editor-in-Chief of Southern Living.
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I think it is worth a try as you have nothing to lose, but rooting these is not easy. But, if you have had success in the past, then if the wood of the plant is not too big and old, you probably can root it the same way you did the others.
Well, you can do that as long as there is foliage below where you are cutting the ficus. Just remember that you can also do it in stages, which I like to do.
Need more information. Sun or shade, degree of slope, quality of soil, current state of erosion, are things I need to help you make a good decision. Also, see post on sun ground covers.
I could use some more details. Dense is Asian Jasmine and it hugs the ground, and once established it can be maintained with nylon-string trimmers. Almost all of the Junipers like full sun, and you can get them in a variety of sizes (heights). Many folks use these on slopes. Others include winter Jasmine, some of the new rose types that trail, prostrate loropetalum (Chinese Fringe),etc. A good description of the space you are considering, and the quality of the soil would help me be more specific.
It certainly can be cut back with a string trimmer, but using a mower if the crown is high will probably damage or kill the plant.
I think they should be fertilized each time they finish blooming. So, depending on the type you have, that would be two or three times a year.
Slug bait usually controls them, but if not I have had good luck pouring beer in shallow tops and putting them under the leaves, and it does the trick over time. But if you have a large infestation, you are going to have to refill the tops several times.
While I have never used this product, I checked with the Hanna Center at the Botanical Gardens, and they say it is an excellent product. Two things to remember, it lasts only a max of ten days and spraying open blooms can cause burn to the petals.
I checked with my friends with the Hanna Center and they agree that if it is just brittle or brown leaves, it is one of two things: the plants got dry and the lower leaves are where the damage is exhibited, or it is just a characterisitc of the plants, as many of the older types have this as a common characteristic.
See answer below.
I like to fertilize them when they finish blooming, but some folks think if you fertilize them once flower buds appear, it will increase bloom size. But I always like to do it after flowering, and make sure they have plenty of water when they are fertliized
Try “Petals from the Past” in Jemison. If anybody has it they do as old fashion roses is one of their specialties.
In our area, and especially in Trussville, our soils are high in phosphorus. That is why Auburn recommends 15-0-15, and yes it can be used as a turf fertilizer too (as most fertilizers can). I got a bag a couple of weeks ago at Universal Pro (formally Universal Seed and Supply).
Actually, I like to fertilize mine before they come into bloom because of the energy the plants need to bloom. Once blooming is finshed a few weeks, I feed them again to encourage additional tuber growth. Fertilization prior to, and after bloom is a common way to handle most perennials.
In order to save water this time of the year, I irrigate if we have not had rain in 4 to 5 days. As the weather moves in hot of course you may need to irrigate every three days. Currently I have mine on 20 minutes per station, but when summer comes I put mine on 30 minutes a station. While I have an automatic system, when we have heavy rains I turn mine off to save water, then turn it back on when it is dry enough to water again.